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Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve is a very large, very remote and very difficult area to access. The itinerary must always be flexible and adapt to weather conditions, logistical challenges and the interests of each group. We always endeavor to provide you with the safest, most interesting and time effective trip possible. Primarily because of the large distances involved, all trips travel either north to south or south to north. In order to accomplish this, guests begin their trip by flying from Queen Charlotte City to a destination point in either the northern or southern reaches of the park. The full six-day trip will then be capped off by another "flight seeing" trip returning guests directly to Queen Charlotte City on the morning of their seventh day.
We try to get going fairly early in the day to make the most of our time in Gwaii Haanas (i.e., up at 7 to 7:30 and away by 8:30). We travel, relax, explore and prepare meals together. We'll be stopping several times a day to go ashore and experience the rich natural and cultural points of interest in Gwaii Haanas or to kayak for a few hours in a quiet bay or along an interesting reef. At the end of our travels for the day we find a quiet anchorage, prepare our evening meal and perhaps go for a paddle to absorb the peace and tranquility of this magical place.
Itinerary
What follows is a general outline of how a six-day trip might go. Weather conditions and the interests of the group often determine the actual itinerary of our trip. You’ll have some responsibilities in terms of helping with day to day tasks but also have a large measure of control over the pace and focus of the trip.
Arriving
You need to arrive on the Charlottes before our day of departure. If you have the time, build at least two days into your travel plan to explore Graham Island (lots of interesting and beautiful things to see and do). There are two ways of getting to Queen Charlotte City, either by air from Vancouver to Sandspit or via B.C. Ferries from Prince Rupert, B.C. (see 'Getting to the Charlottes' below). If you fly into Sandspit, take the airport limo to Queen Charlotte City ($18.00/person including ferry fare). This takes about an hour including the ferry trip across Skidegate Inlet. The limo will drop you at your hotel, B&B, or campsite. Accommodation should be previously arranged. Talk to me - I can help you get the best deal in airfare from Vancouver to Sandspit as well as suggest accommodation and car rental options. If you sailed across from Prince Rupert via BC Ferry's, you'll dock at Skidegate Landing - about a five-minute drive or cab ride from Queen Charlotte City.
Day One
There are several great hotels and B&B's in Queen Charlotte City. Pick one ( I can offer suggestions) that serves breakfast early, as in approximately 0645. You must make your way to the South Moresby Air Charters sea plane dock in central Queen Charlotte City (it's all central, by the way) by 0730. The plane leaves at 0800 and they'll need time to stow your gear and get you aboard. If you've chosen a southbound trip you'll be in the air for about 35 minutes before arriving alongside the M.V. Island Bay in a protected harbour in the northern portion of Gwaii Haanas National Park. If you're on a northbound trip you'll land at Rose Harbour at approximately 0900. After stowing our gear and a vessel safety orientation we're off on the first day of our adventure. First stop will likely be Taanoo, the spectacular site of an ancient Haida winter village. If weather permits we'll then head southward along the eastern side of Lyell Island stopping at Windy Bay to stretch our legs, meet the Watchpeople and explore a really interesting culturally modified forest (and I don't mean a stump ranch like us late coming cultural modifiers have left in our wake). The last leg of day one will put us in Murchison Anchorage - a beautiful spot to hang or paddle, particularly at low tide.
Day Two
Depending on the level of the tide, we'll either go for an early morning paddle or head to the nearby hotsprings for a soak. Hotsprings Island is spectacular and well worth a visit by itself. I'm a bit prejudiced on this but I think that it's definitely the best hotsprings in B.C., possibly even Canada or even...mayby... the world! Definitely a 10 in any case. After a bath, we'll be moving south again likely to Island Bay in the north Burnaby Strait area. We might try to fish up dinner along the way and will very likely want to get a paddle in as well.
Day Three
Burnaby Narrows lies a short paddle from Island Bay. Some references say it has the densest display of sea life on the Pacific coast. Records aside, it does present an opportunity for two or three of the most enjoyable hours you'll spend in a kayak. An incredible array of intertidal flora and fauna residing there to take advantage of the twice daily tidal delivery of nutrients, become exposed and visible at low tide. A kayak - maneuverable, quiet and otherwise unobtrusive, is the perfect craft to view this natural splendor. As the tide rises a passage opens miraculously, saving us the long and sometimes arduous voyage around the outside of Burnaby Island. By noon we're usually through 'The Narrows" and into beautiful Skincuttle Inlet. There are many opportunities here for pristine ancient forest walks, exploring streams that later in the year will provide unaltered habitat for several species of pacific salmon. We choose to end our day by traveling a bit further south or we may just stay put in Skincuttle for the night.
Day Four
The area south of Skincuttle Inlet and particularly west of Houston Stewart Channel separating Moresby Island from Kunghit Island offers great bird watching opportunities with Tufted Puffins, Rhinoceros Auklets, Cassin's Auklets, Storm Petrels, Sooty Shearwaters to name a few, being common. If we're lucky, we might see a Horned Puffin, as the southern Charlottes are the only place that they nest in Canada. We've often seen humpback, orca and minke whales as we head south from Skincuttle Inlet en route to the southern reaches of the park. I often go into Rose Inlet for a paddle and walk through an old Haida industrial park where they obtained much of the raw materials required to sustain their culture (bark, logs for manufacturing canoes, poles, houses etc.).
Day Five
Walk on a magnificent black sand beach, explore natural caves or paddle the tidal pools in the Gordon Islands a truly west coast setting. The southern reaches of the park are really spectacular and offer lots of choice for the day's activities. The weather (i.e. wind speed and direction) will often make the choices for us but we'll try to accomodate the collective will of the group as much as possible. We may end up the day in one of the protected bays of Louscoone Inlet. Perhaps needless to say, there's nice paddling here too!
Day Six
To SGaang Gwaii (Anthony Island) and Nan Sdins village (Ninstints) bright and early - if you're confused by all the names and various spellings surrounding this village, you're not alone - I'll tell you about it sometime! The names may be somewhat confusing but the impression that Nan Sdins leaves is most certainly not. Spectacular, fabulous, incredible are only a few of the adjectives that people conjure up to describe this place. Nan Sdins was very aptly named as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1981. It remains as the only example in the world of a traditional Northwest Coast First Nations village, complete with standing poles and the remains of massive cedar longhouses. The progression of human evolution from cave dweller to masters of architecture and culture remains clearly evident. The Haida's ability to not just survive but to thrive on this small windswept island is a tribute to man's indomitable ingenuity and force of spirit.
A hike to the west side of the Island, kayaking in the northern reefs of Sgaang Gwaii or possibly a visit (weather permitting) to the spectacular sea lion colony off the southwest side of the Island are all options for the afternoon.
A visit with friends in Rose Harbour completes an interesting day. These folks live lightly on the land and teach by example that a simpler existence is possible and rewarding. They often generously invite us to explore the remains of the Rose Harbour Whaling Station or to view a partially finished Haida canoe on their property. Susan often prepares a splendid organic vegetarian meal with homegrown ingredients to cap an incredible day.
The following morning sees you packed and heading north for Queen Charlotte City via floatplane - another adventure in itself. South Moresby Air Charters employs several very competent and knowledgeable local pilots and has accumulated an impressive safety record while servicing all points of the Islands over the past twelve years.
A northbound trip follows roughly the same itinerary in reverse with a few minor changes to accommodate logistical concerns (tides and the like).
Keep in mind that this itinerary may vary a lot depending on weather and the interests of the group. I try to visit at least one new place on each tour. No two trips are ever the same. More or less time can be allocated to exploring with kayaks and/or hiking into lakes or spectacular alpine areas. The information provided below gives you an idea of the possibilities.
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